The Great Southern, at Your Own Pace

Some road trips are about the destination. The Great Southern is about every mile in between. Four to five hours south-east of Perth, Western Australia’s southern coast unfolds in granite peaks, cool-climate vineyards, towering tingle forests and beaches so empty you’ll wonder where everyone went. Tourism WA maps it as a four-day loop, but with the van in tow, it’s a trip that rewards those who take their time.

Mount Barker and the Porongurups

Head south from Perth on the Albany Highway, through the Wheatbelt, to Mount Barker, about 370 km away. This is the heart of the Great Southern wine region, the largest wine-producing region in Australia by area. Settle in with a long lunch overlooking the vines, and let the pace of the trip shift down a gear.

Just east of town, Porongurup National Park is one of the world’s biodiversity hotspots, home to more than 100 bird species and around 750 plant varieties. Visit between September and December and you’ll find the hillsides alive with wildflowers. The highlight is the Granite Skywalk at Castle Rock, a suspended walkway clinging to the granite with sweeping views across the southern landscape. The Castle Rock trail is about 4.7 km return. The lower lookout is the easier option, while reaching the upper Skywalk means scrambling over rocks and climbing a short ladder, so choose the one that suits you.

Albany, 200 years in the making

Around 45 minutes south of the Porongurups lies Albany, known to the Menang Noongar people as Kinjarling. It’s where Western Australia’s colonial story began, with the arrival of the brig Amity on Christmas Day 1826, and in 2026 the city is celebrating its bicentenary. Time your visit for Saturday 7 November to see Carrying the Fire, when thousands of handmade lanterns light the coastline from Emu Point to Middleton Beach. It’s free, and anyone can join in. Through the summer, don’t miss the Kalyagul: Connections to Menang Country exhibition, or the free Albany Is audio walk through town.

Albany is also where the first Anzacs departed for the First World War, a story told movingly at the National Anzac Centre above King George Sound. Pair it with a visit to the Historic Whaling Station at Discovery Bay.

Then let the coast take over. In Torndirrup National Park, The Gap and Natural Bridge put the full force of the Southern Ocean on show, while nearby Misery Beach was named Tourism Australia’s Best Beach for 2022. On a Saturday morning, the Albany Farmers’ Market is the place to stock up on local produce.

Denmark, where the forest meets the sea

Follow the coast west for around 54 km to Denmark, an old timber-milling town where karri forest runs right down to the ocean. Take the Scotsdale Tourist Drive into the green hills for wineries, orchards, cheese, chocolate and galleries, an easy half-day of tasting your way through the countryside.

Just west of town, William Bay National Park is home to two of the south coast’s most photographed spots. Elephant Rocks is a gathering of giant granite boulders, while the sheltered, clear water of Greens Pool is perfect for a gentle swim on a calm day.

Among the giants at Walpole

Continue on to Walpole-Nornalup National Park and the Valley of the Giants Tree Top Walk. Rising 40 metres above the forest floor, the 600-metre walkway winds through the canopy of ancient red tingle trees, some of them hundreds of years old. It sways gently in the breeze, and it’s a humbling way to see a forest. The walk can close in extreme weather, so check conditions on the day.

The road home

When it’s time to head north, retrace your steps through Mount Barker to catch the cellar doors you missed on the way down, and break the journey at Kojonup’s Kodja Place or the historic town of Williams.

Where to stay with the van

In Albany

BIG4 Middleton Beach Holiday Park stretches along around 500 metres of Middleton Beach, sheltered by King George Sound, with a heated pool and spa for unwinding after a day of exploring. It’s also right on the doorstep for Carrying the Fire. For a quieter, nature-based stay, Panorama Caravan Park sits on the water about 10 minutes from town, right on the doorstep of Torndirrup National Park, with powered sites looking out over the bay. Tasman Holiday Parks Albany offers powered and ensuite sites, a pool and a camp kitchen complete with a pizza oven.

In Denmark

Denmark Rivermouth Caravan Park sits where the Denmark River meets the Wilson Inlet, with around 110 powered sites, a café, and kayaks and paddleboards for hire to explore the water. If you’d rather be near the surf, BIG4 Denmark Ocean Beach Holiday Park offers generous powered sites of around 10 by 10 metres, close to Ocean Beach.

In Walpole

Coalmine Beach Holiday Park is set within Walpole-Nornalup National Park on a sheltered beach on the inlet, around 2 km from town, with powered sites to suit big rigs and plenty of shade under the trees.

You’ll find more parks across the region through Caravan & Camping WA.

Before you go

The Great Southern is beautiful year-round, but the coast can turn wild and cool even in summer, so pack layers. Park entry fees apply in national parks such as the Porongurups, so check passes before you set out. Confirm attraction opening hours, and book ahead if you’re travelling over the summer holidays, or for the Carrying the Fire weekend, when Albany’s parks are likely to be busy.